Arrival in the Galapagos - 12 April 2024
Charles and I had the 11.00pm slot until 2.00am and we motored along and had a number of Swallow-Tailed Gulls flying around Stormbird and we could see them in the navigation lights. They looked like owls when they fly and were making clicking noises and every now and then would dip down to the water as if picking up fish. I wondered how they could see fish in the dark to be able to do that. Charles began to think and wondered whether the clicking noise was some kind of sonar. We therefore looked them up in Mark’s Galapagos book and he was right. Firstly, these are the only gulls in the world that feed at night and secondly they think that they do have some form of echolocation system to help them fly at night and be able to fish etc.
We handed over to Mark and Joyce who then handed over to Keith and Angus and I was woken about 5.30am as we would be approaching Wreck Bay soon. I got up quickly and could clearly see San Cristobel Island on our left and it was a misty grey morning. The Island seemed dark green and we continued down its west side as it was getting lighter. We then approached the waypoint and Wreck Bay began to open up. We saw a number of dolphins pass us as if a welcome party. We could see a number of boats at anchor in what was a reasonable size bay and more than I had anticipated.
We turned on to the transit line (this is where you line up lights or marks and you keep on that line and a steady bearing which guides you in) which was bearing 155T and we could see ahead a number of small passenger ferries (which are the main way to go round the Galapagos. They take between 12-16 passengers and they tour the various islands and they anchor in bays like this) and then there are the visiting yachts like us and then the local boats – so it seemed quite crowded. However, we came into the bay and managed to find a spot and were anchored by about 6.45am. Whilst anchoring we were greeted by a number of sea lions swimming around the boat and other boats. We noticed that none of the yachts were using their dinghies and they were left on the davits and that they had all put fenders on their rear steps etc. We realised this was due to the sea lions and seals which like to crawl on to them and so everyone uses water taxis and it is a $ a trip.
We had completed the passage from the Las Perlas in 5 days 22 hours and 15 minutes and travelled 914 miles. We had had to motor 70 hours in total due to the light winds or winds in the wrong direction. We had arrived safe and sound and it felt quite an achievement. Wow we had sailed to the Galapagos.
The town spread round the bay and looked quite modern with modern style (glass and simple shape) properties and it had a number of piers. It looked pleasant but not attractive so we will have to see what it is like ashore. We were not able to go ashore until we had checked in and been inspected. This was to happen about 11.00am and we therefore cleared up the boat and went through our food stuff and fridges and got rid of anything which was opened etc. We thought we would be honest and put our packs of cheese and nuts on the table for them to see. We left the freezer as is and thought we would show it to them when they arrived. I had been asked to make some signs which I had done with A4 paper and I laminated them. There were five, General Garbage, Recycling, Organic Waste (put where these were), Do not throw Garbage into the Sea (on deck) and Do not discharge wastewater into the sea (on the engine room door).
We completed our preparations and waited. About 11.30am a water taxi approached with 11 officials to carry out the inspection. They all came in and sat about the cockpit and I was asked a load of questions- how may engines, generator and make, number of flares, how much fuel do you carry and how many fire extinguishers. A diver went down and checked the hull – I was dreading this as although Mark and I had cleaned it – it was full of Algae in the Las Perlas but we passed this inspection. I was asked for the dive certificate for the cleaning of the hull which I gave and the fumigation certificate. A doctor then wanted to see our medical kit. He was somewhat surprised when I got it all out and was rather put off by its extensive nature I think as he just checked two bags and then left the rest. We then had our passports checked and we all had to fill in an immigration form.
It was then the food inspection – one man came down – had a quick look in the fridge and then the freezer where he noted a pack of mince and took a picture on his phone. He then went to the cockpit again and showed the picture to his colleague who obviously was not impressed with his colleague and this time made us put all the beef into a bag which he wrapped tape around and said that we must not use it in the Galapagos. He ignored the cheese and the nuts etc.
The military man in khaki filled in some forms and the policeman sat there looking at his phone and was very pleased to have his picture taken. There were then 3 people from the agency help co-ordinate. There were therefore 11 involved in this inspection. They did not review my signs, or the heads(toilets) for which I had had to write a certificate about and there was a feeling that this was a bit of a jolly for them -something different from the norm and some of the elements were not very thorough and it was not taken too seriously. The main thing was that we passed and were free to go into town. We had about two weeks of rubbish to get rid of and we took this with the agency staff ashore.
We got rid of the rubbish (we call it gash – which is what the navy call it) which was a relief and we then were shown a little bit in town, but the crew wanted a beer. It was now a lovely sunny day and quite warm. We found a bar and had a drink and then a bite to eat. The freezer man was coming at 2.00pm so Mark and I returned to Stormbird. The man came and checked the freezer and it was minus 17 so it was working but he said the compressor was very not and it had lost some gas which he replaced. He thought the compressor or the chip card was faulty but they could not get spares in Ecuador. We will just have to keep and eye on it and hope it will continue to work.
We returned to town and went to find the others. The town itself has Peruvian or south American feel with lost of bars and restaurants together with dive shops and tour operators. It is quite lively and had a certain odour about it. That odour is as a result of the sea lions who are everywhere. The best way of describing it is that man and sea lion share the town on a form of accepted harmony.
The sea lions are swimming around the bay, climbing on to boats and piers where they can. They lie on steps and the wooden benches where they sleep. They are on the beach parts and in large numbers and they make a lot of noise and what can only be described as quite rude type noises which they make without fear whereas if a human did the same there would be astonishment or strange looks. They also talk a lot and squark at each other or fight. The smell is quite powerful and pervades the air but that is accepted and is the norm. It is a kind of sea lion/salt water aftershave. Angus had seen a blue boobie and Charles an Iguana and red crab.
We joined the others for an ice cream which was good and then we went next door to the restaurant Umami, which was very good and one of the better restaurants in town. We eat looking over the bay with about 75 sea lions nearby making quite a noise on the little beach and wafting the sealion aftershave around.
We had arranged to be picked up by water taxi at 8.30pm at one of the piers and we arrived a little early and watched the sea lions all over the pier and lying on the benches and street corners. The man did not come and I called on the radio, but no-one answered. Water taxis stop at 7.00pm unless you make an arrangement, which we had. I asked around but they all said no taxis until tomorrow. I suddenly had visions of us spending the night on the benches with the sea lions!! Luckily a tender from one of the large passenger boats came and Mark asked if they could help. Luckily they agreed and we got back to Stormbird. Thank goodness.
It had been a great day and we have had a little taste of San Cristobel. We really look forward to exploring these islands. We feel very lucky to be here.
Opportunity for any Readers/Sailors.
In late May 2024 we shall be in the Marquesas in French Polynesia, and we will then move through to the Tuamotu’s before getting to Tahiti about the end of July 2024. There may be some space on Stormbird during this period should any sailor/reader be interested in joining for this period or part of it in what must be one of the most distant and beautiful places in the world.
In addition, in year two I will be going up the Eastern Australian Coast, Indonesia and probably across the Indian Ocean to Cape Town and I will need some more crew.
If there is any interest do email me at hine.nick9@gmail.com
The blog will continue as we head off to the Galapagos and beyond.
If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com I can only upload one picture a day and visit our website www.stormbirdgoesglobal.co.uk