Canouan 30 January 2024
We had a good night and the anchor alarm (you can set an alarm by GPS so if you wonder off by 40 or 50 meters or whatever you set it at, it will alert you) did not go off. Some had a morning swim and the usurping Robbie’s position I made porridge which went down with all. We got the dinghy down and headed off to shore to explore this new Island.
We moored the dinghy at the ferry dock but had to put out our stern anchor which was unusual but there was a man looking after all the dinghies who would no doubt want paying later. We wondered ashore to Charlestown which seemed a typical shack town and on the shore was a tourist centre. We wanted to see the Island and there was a lady there called Susan (from Scotland but who had been here 30 years) who we spoke to and who suggested a taxi to take us around and to go and look in the special resort. I was not so sure about looking in a resort as that was not really what we had come to see but I am glad she did for contrast reasons.
Dwain came in his taxi and we agreed a price and off we went. We passed Charlestown Market street which was full of little stalls selling vegetables and fruit. It was quite poor and basic and the people seemed to be quite poorly dressed. He then took us North and to a high point which looked over the whole bay of Charlestown and it was great to see Stormbird at anchor in the blue clear water. In fact the bay had different colours depending on depth, weed etc. It reminded me of Bequia but without all the yachts and boats.
Dwain then drove us further North and we entered the luxury resort which is split into two – half is the Mandarin and the other half the Canouan Estate. It was a luxury resort with lots of little villas within the trees and there was a golf course, restaurants etc. There is even a Soho House here. It was interesting to see but quite a contrast to Charlestown. He then drove us to a private beach within the resort called L’Ainse Guyac which was very nice but manicured and no-one was on it. From the resort Dwain took us to the Windward side of the Island where we could clearly see the waves breaking on the reef and the blue turquoise water between it and the shore. The Island has a lot or tortoises and they were sitting beside the road in places. This is quite a special Island.
We then drove back to Charlestown and then on toward the little airport which takes small planes from other Islands and past that the Sandy Lane Yacht Club – which is a marina which can take up to 120 yachts and is one of the few marinas that can take superyachts in the Caribbean. It was quite manicured and a complete contrast again to Charleston. There was a great restaurant we found there called Shenanigans where we had a great meal overlooking a fabulous sandy beach and a turquoise blue sea with a small bar on the side and a swimming pool. The menu was interesting and different and after lunch we had a swim in the sea and then the pool and chilled in the shade. Everyone thought it was very special and we spent a good few hours her.
Dwain came to collect us and take us back to Charlestown where we tried a rum punch at the Ice bar which was ok but not the best we have had. Our man was waiting who was looking after our dinghy and we gave him some money. We returned to Stormbird and watched the sun go down. There were quite a few Pelicans around and they are quite big birds. Once dark we put on our underwater blue lights (there are 4 and they go through the hull and light up the stern of the boat) on the stern and watched to see if we attract fish which it did. We think we saw a Barracuda or two in the light.
As we had eaten well we had a snack supper and played Wizard -a game of cards. It had been a great day and we had seen a new Island. Canouan has a different vibe from Bequia. It is quieter and more relaxed with less people and yachts etc. At the same time it is an escape for those who want to come to the luxury resorts. It is an interesting Island and I agree with Chris Doyle when he says it has spectacular beaches, pleasant walks and great views everywhere. We return to Bequia tomorrow to collect the Red Baron.
The blog will continue as we explore the Caribbean further and beyond.
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