En Route to the Galapagos - 10 April 2024

We motored most of the night as there was not enough wind and we needed to maintain at least 6 kts to make it to our waypoint which we had set North of San Cristobel so we could cover the last 30 miles to Wreck Bay and arrive in early light to anchor.

We are nearly there and I almost have to pinch myself to realise I am sailing on my own boat to the Galapagos!

The Galapagos

The islands were first discovered in 1535 by the Bishop of Panama. He noted the tortoises and iguanas and the tameness of the animals. The islands then became a useful place for pirates. The islands were named in 1574 after the giant tortoises, as the shell of the saddle back tortoise looks similar to a Spanish saddle or Galapagos.  Charles Darwin came to the Galapagos in 1835 on the ship HMS Beagle and his discoveries put it more on the map. He was a pre-eminent scientist of his time and his concept of evolution formed the bedrock of our understanding of nature. It is still one of the few places in the world relatively untouched by human exploitation. It is a unique living museum and a showcase of evolution. They are an archipelago of 19 islands, located about 600nm off Ecuador. It is a national park and biological marine reserve which is governed by a whole set of regulations and Stormbird has had to get special permission to visit. Until 1964 the only way to get to the Galapagos was by sea. Commercial flights did not take place until 1968. We are going to San Cristobel – Puerto Bacuerizo – or Wreck Bay as it is known where we will anchor for the whole time.

When we arrive, we will have an inspection team come aboard and they will inspect the boat internally and externally. I have had to provide a fumigation certificate and a certificate to say that we have cleaned the hull. I have also had to write an explanation about how our heads (toilets) work and what toilet tanks we have and how we will prevent black water (sewage) going into the sea. We are not allowed any out-of-date tins and all our ins have been gone through by some of the crew. We did find 3 out of date tins which were bratwursts and I probably brought them on board from my old boat. There are a number of other items we are not allowed to bring for example, oranges (apparently they could bring a weevil), mangoes, strawberries, blackberries etc. We are also not allowed unsealed seeds, nuts and any beef, pork or lamb unless it is sealed in a freezer and we will not be able to eat it when in the Galapagos. I just hope our inspection will be ok.

Charles and I came on watch at 5.00am and there was wind and we could sail it although it would take us a bit of course. It was beginning to get light and the forecast said the wind would start to decline about 4.00pm and come round further to the south. We therefore put out our sails and turned the engine off (which had been working away for some hours) and we were off. As the sun came up we were doing 8-8.5 kts and having a great sail whilst everyone else was sleeping. It was great sailing and Stormbird was enjoying herself and the sea was relatively calm.  As time went on we decided to reef the main a bit to limit the heal (slant) on the boat.

We sailed most of the day like this and it was a pleasant change to the engine and we were of course saving fuel. Mark and I decided to defrost the freezer as we wondered whether that may be causing the temperature issue. We therefore unloaded everything into the fridge and using warm water we got rid of any ice and then put it all back again. At present this does not seem to have resolved the issue, so I have asked for a refrigeration person to come when we arrive in the Galapagos.

 Mark cooked a Spanish Omelette for lunch and we carried on sailing close hauled (close to the wind) By 4.00pm our second watch the wind was declining and we were off course. The wind had not come round enough as predicted so we decided to motor again so we could head in the right direction and achieve the time to get to our waypoint off San Cristobel.

Charles cooked a Spaghetti Bolognaise which was good and we watched the sun go down and a new moon come up whilst being surrounded by boobies all trying to get on the pulpit. More crap to clear off tomorrow – no doubt. After supper the stars came out and the milky way was so clear. We have one more day to go and we plan to arrive early on the 12th and our inspection is booked for 11.00am.

Distance 24 hour run at 12.00noon 155nm.

Opportunity for any Readers/Sailors.

In late May 2024 we shall be in the Marquesas in French Polynesia, and we will then move through to the Tuamotu’s before getting to Tahiti about the end of July 2024. There may be some space on Stormbird during this period should any sailor/reader be interested in joining for this period or part of it in what must be one of the most distant and beautiful places in the world.

In addition, in year two I will be going up the Eastern Australian Coast, Indonesia and probably across the Indian Ocean to Cape Town and I will need some more crew.

If there is any interest do email me at  hine.nick9@gmail.com  

The blog will continue as we head off to the Galapagos and beyond.

If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com  I can only upload one picture a day and visit our website www.stormbirdgoesglobal.co.uk