Las Perlas - 2 April 2024
It was an early start as we had decided to go and explore the Rio Cacique (a river which flowed through the jungle on this island) which was at the end of our anchorage. We were at neaps rather than springs in terms of tide. The easiest way to explain this is that when there is full moon or a new moon the gravitational pull of the moon is stronger, so the tides are higher and this is what we call Springs and at these times this means the tide rises more at high tide and goes down more at low tide. We call it the tidal range that is greater at these times. This is very relevant when going over sandbars and anchoring or being able to go into ports where you need a certain amount of water. Neaps is the opposite and it is where the tidal range is at its lowest, so the height of tide is not that great and the low water level is not that low. To give an example the Spring tides say in the Solent are about 4 meters plus in range whereas at neaps it is about 2 meters.
As we were at neaps, we knew that the level in the water in the Rio would not be that great. High Water was about 9.30am. We headed off in the dinghy about 7.30am most of us having had a breakfast. This was about 2 hours before high water, so we had some time before the tide change. We approached the entrance to the river and there were waves either side going on to the beach. We went through the middle and even so there was only a few feet of water below us to the sand of the riverbed.
Once through we motored forward slowly and the current was taking us in. We saw a few rocks below us and decided to turn the engine off and just float with the tide. As we glided down the river forked and we took the right fork which took us past some sandy banks with trees and mangroves. We started to hear cicadas, which as we went down the river got lounder and almost became defeaning. Our right fork started to shallow and we saw we should have taken the left fork and we saw a fork taking us back to the mainstream. However, it was too shallow, so we had to get out and start to walk the dinghy forward- see the picture of the day.
We got back into the mainstream and Angus and Keith had an oar either side and their job was to guide us down the river using them as paddles. It was magical floating down and watching the wildlife and the sounds of the jungle. It remined me for those who are old enough of David Bellamy who used to have a big beard and a lisp talking about the “Tropical Rainforests of South America” and here we were. David Attenborugh would have been proud of us and I wondered whether around the next corner we would see a BBC Crew filming. Well today it was us. We saw lots of birdlife -egrets with their white plumage and red legs, herons of all shapes and sizes, Ibis, Kingbirds, Kingfishers, Bitterns and a turkey vulture. There was lots of birdsong from parrots and other birds just audible above the cicadas. It sounded just like a wildlife programme on TV and looked it. We saw little fish dancing across the surface like we did in the San Blas as if dancing to Swan Lake. We also saw lots of other fish life in the water darting about or swimming slowly into the current. We also saw a number of spotted rays, which were astonishing really as they were swimming down and you would not think they would be in such a shallow river. The lines of the banks were covered in mangroves and trees with their roots stretching into the water like they were standing on legs. There were also stones and rocks under the water and along the banks. Birds were feeding in the mud and foliage on the shore. We had to manoevre around sandbanks and bits of trees in the river and whole trunks some of which were below the surface.
The tide took us down about 1-2 kts – a perfect speed to take in all this wildlife and in such a remote location. We wondered who else had been here before – it did not seem that many. It gave us a great opportunity to marvel and listen to natural environment that few have experienced as well as enabling us to take video and photographs. I was expecting any moment now for a crocodile to appear from the mangroves, but it did not appear. I am not sure what we would have done if it had.
We must have gone down the river about half a mile or so and the water speed was slowing and the river was more stagnant and so we decided to gradually head back with the belief that the water would be a bit deeper than it had been when we entered. We therefore put on the engine and slowly retraced our steps seeing the same animals and birdlife on our return. However, as we came back we also saw some iguana’s that came out on to the banks and we managed to get out of the river without having to get out. We returned to Stormbird and we all felt what an amazing adventure that had been and a memorable one to have experienced.
We then chilled and read books although Mark did some provisioning sorting and Joyce cooked some flapjacks. Mark also cut up some dried chillies to out into our chilli jar. I reminded him to wash his hands before he touched things which may be painful if touched by chillies!!. We had a light lunch of tuna and sweetcorn, homemade coleslaw etc and then rested in the afternoon and read again. It was very hot as there was little wind. I had an Ian Rebus book which I was getting into and Charles got out the paddleboard and set off for the beach to the west of the Rio. He came back to say that he had seen claw tracks and tail scrape signs on the beach toward a stagnant pond and thought it must be a crocodile. However, when debating Mark suggested that whilst Crocodiles have claws they have more padded feet and so he thought it may be a large lizard like a Komodo Dragon. Either way Charles said it must have been huge and perhaps we were lucky not to see one on the river. It also makes you wonder whether they swim near the boat!
I had a dip in the water which was noticeably cooler than the previous anchorages as I guess we are nearer to open water. I was also on the lookout for jelly fish as we had seen some nasty looking jelly fish drift past. Their heads were translucent and had brown stripes and their tentacles were about a foot long or more. I am sure they would give a nasty sting and best to be avoided.
We watched the sun go down on the aft deck and reflected it had been a very interesting and enjoyable day. Keith cooked a minced beef supper with rice and we chilled on the aft deck in the dark trying to catch any passing breeze to cool down.
We will move on tomorrow to another anchorage and we have been keeping an eye on the weather and at present there is little wind in the days ahead to push us on to the Galapagos.
Opportunity for any Readers/Sailors.
In late May 2024 we shall be in the Marquesas in French Polynesia, and we will then move through to the Tuamotu’s before getting to Tahiti about the end of July 2024. There may be some space on Stormbird during this period should any sailor/reader be interested in joining for this period or part of it in what must be one of the most distant and beautiful places in the world.
In addition, in year two I will be going up the Eastern Australian Coast, Indonesia and probably across the Indian Ocean to Cape Town and I will need some more crew.
If there is any interest do email me at hine.nick9@gmail.com
The blog will continue as we head off to the Galapagos and beyond.
If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com I can only upload one picture a day and visit our website www.stormbirdgoesglobal.co.uk