Marquesas –Depart Nuku Hiva 15 June 2024

We woke at 5.00am and upped anchor in the dark to set off for the Tuamotus. It was a bit cloudy and the anchor lights were still twinkling from all the other yachts moored in the bay. A cruise ship had come in the night and anchored further out called the Paul Gauguin. It painted itself in the bay with all its lights.

We motored out of Baie Taiohae which we had visited a number of times and now know quite well. The light was just beginning to show providing an outline of the rocky outcrops of the bay. We then saw the Sentinels (the rocks which guard the bay) and as we passed them it was light although the sun had yet to rise above the horizon.

We had just under 500 nm to go to Ahe, the atoll we planned to visit first with the aim of arriving about 10 or 11.00am a few hours before high water which we had calculated was about 13.42. We put the sails up and we were sailing at an angle of about 115-120 degrees off the wind in full main and genoa initially. The wind was about 16-17 kts so we were making enough speed to get us there on time. However, we knew that the forecast was for the wind to drop down a bit so we needed to make the miles when we can. The sun came up and it was a beautiful morning with lots of sun and little cloud and the sea state was not too bad -perhaps 2m swells but it looked so blue and inviting.

As we were only 3 we decided on a 3 hour shift pattern – i.e. – 3 hours on and six hours off with only one on each watch. We know, however, that at any point we may need to be called up to reef or help with something. We started the shift system at 6.00am and I took the first watch until 9.00am and then Andy took over from me until 12.00noon and then Joyce from 12.00noon etc. The wind strength increased to 18/19 with occasional gusts up to 24 kts. As the wind strengthened we put a reef in the main and were making good progress to our destination.

Nuku Hiva and the Marquesas gradually faded into the background becoming just a shape and then they were gone. They are a lovely set of islands and very green and verdant as they get quite a bit of rain. The islands are all different and have slightly different rock formations and shapes which give an interesting geological scenery. The views are amazing and you could sometimes be in the Alps or sometimes in Canada or Scotland. The fruits are amazing and delicious with papaya and mangoes and bananas growing everywhere. Even though there are lots of Coconut trees these do not seem to be eaten regularly or available to buy. The flowers and vegetation are plentiful, pretty and lush and they seem to take care of their gardens here. The people are friendly and helpful and seem to appreciate visitors and are proud of their islands. Most have quite extensive tattoos on their arms, legs and backs and some all over their face which can look quite menacing. They do have a weight problem here and most, particularly women are overweight and I think it is the fast-food diet and drinks which are the cause. They would not be like this if they stuck to fruit and fish which used to be their staple diet. However, it is quite expensive to buy food in the shops although meals are not too bad.  I wish them well.

It has been an amazing few weeks seeing these remote islands and I feel lucky to have done so and to have had the opportunity. You do not have to have a boat to do this and can do it by flying to the islands that have airstrips and by ferries to the others. If you get an opportunity or are thinking about it -do it!  

The day wore on and we made some good miles with the wind varying by 50 degrees. It also died to 11 kts and we were struggling to make our minimum speed. I checked the weather and the wind is to reduce over the next few days and the models therefore send you further southwest to get a better and faster sail angle. We have therefore set a waypoint as proposed for tomorrow to aim for. The wind picked up again and we made good speed in the afternoon.

The generator went on for charging and I watched the temperature and ensured it had enough coolant.  After a couple of hours the batteries were charged.

What a difference a few hours make as by about 6.00pm as we were about to have supper we had rain clouds around us and the wind went up to 24/25 kts. We reefed the main and took down the genoa and put out the staysail. This was a good move as for the rest of the evening the wind was consistently 20-24 kts so our conservative sail plan did well. There was however a swell on our beam which made sleeping etc quite tricky. I had been on watch 3pm to 6.00pm and Andy 6-9.00pm and Joyce 9-midnight and the same conditions continued.

Joyce had cooked a chicken casserole in advance and she heated this up with some broccoli which was delicious, warming and filling. Todays picture is her on the helm. I am sending this now about 12.45am and the wind is still 22 kts. The moon is out and we have a boobie sitting on our crane at the back having a lift. It is also fathers day and my children have messaged me – Happy Father’s Day. I also wish my Dad the same and will call him later.

Crewing Opportunity

We are about to leave the Marquesas in French Polynesia and depart for the Tuamotu’s before getting to Tahiti about the end of July 2024. There may be some space on Stormbird during this period should any sailor/reader be interested in joining for this period or part of it in what must be one of the most distant and beautiful places in the world.

Year Two

In addition, in year two I will be going from New Zealand in early January 2025 across to Sydney and up the Eastern Australian Coast, Indonesia and probably across the Indian Ocean to Cape Town and I will need some more crew.

If there is any interest do email me at  hine.nick9@gmail.com  

The blog will continue as we move through French Polynesia and beyond.

If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com  I can only upload one picture a day and visit our website www.stormbirdgoesglobal.co.uk