Marquesas –Fatu Hiva 1 June 2024
By 10.00pm the wind began to reduce so we shook out the reefs in the main and the genoa and the wind then became fickle. Then there was a big wind shift of up to 100 degrees (not forecast) and suddenly our course was pointing almost 90 degrees off target. I wondered whether this was to be short lived as there were a lot of rain clouds around which we were trying to dodge which may have affected the wind. We could see them on the radar and we were tracking the rain clouds.
The issue was if we tacked, then we would be heading for Hiva Ova and its little neighbour Tahuata not quite but almost 90 degrees the other way from our course to Fatu Hiva. I checked the weather again and the forecast had been updated and two models went through the gap between Hiva Ova and Tahuata so that with the wind change there was a better angle to Fatu Hiva. I therefore decided to tack and we were heading toward the middle of Hiva Ova. I put a waypoint in the middle of the gap between Hiva Ova and Tahuata and thought do I feel comfortable on a dark night going through the gap where I have never been before? I checked the books and studied the chart plotter and the gap was at least three quarters of a mile I estimated. The radar was clearly showing the land and I thought that we should be ok. I had begun to see some lights on Tahuata but there was nothing on Hiva Ova. I decided to take the sails down and motor and put the autopilot on track to the waypoint. This means that it will take into account, wind, current and any other factor to ensure that we arrive at the waypoint and it essentially steers the boat accurately. Suddenly ahead I saw a new moon appear which provided us with enough light to see the outlines of both islands as they joined the sea and it was as if it was guiding the way.
Andy was on watch but I decided to stay and see us through the gap. This took a couple of hours and once through we could see what looked like some small fishing boats to our left. We also looked back to Hiva Ova and could see lights from a town in a bay. Once we were past Tahuata we could then head for Fatu Hiva and luckily the wind strengthened enough for us to sail. It had now gone back to about 40-50 degrees and we were able to sail a beam reach and I left Keith to take over and then this was followed by Joyce. The decision to tack and go through the gap was paying off.
At light the wind had dropped again so the sails came in and we had to motor but by about 7.30am the wind picked up and we were back on a beam reach. It was interesting looking back toward Tahuata and Hiva Ova and they looked interesting to visit.
Fatu Hiva was before us and is a Brazil nut shape. It is the most southern of the Marquesas and it is 35 miles from Hiva Ova. It has heavy rainfall and lush vegetation and apparently is the most beautiful. It has a central range of mountains which runs north to south and reaches 3,150 feet at its highest.
As we approached we could see that at its western end the steep cliffs looked like they had been chiselled. The eastern end had a steep large mount and we were headed to a bay called the Baie de Vierges- bay of virgins. We could see the mountain range which looked like a serrated knife going through its centre. We had breakfast en route of scrambled egg made by Joyce and then a good pot of coffee which made us feel more alive.
The lonely planet guide says it is as far away from the rest of the world as is possible in these modern times. It is a “stop the world and get off”. There is no landing strip so you have to arrive by boat and there is no bank so it is all cash. There are only two villages and one dirt tack between the two. This is the only island where tapa cloth (made from bark) is still being made. The source of the bark determines the colour of the tapa cloth. The off white comes from the mulberry tree, medium brown from the breadfruit tree and the dark brown from the banyan tree. The creators use intricate patterns for their design similar to those used by tattoo artists.
We eventually came to the bay which was surrounded by rocky spires almost like large cathedrals or large statues but huge and towering over the bay. On either side and leading up to the top of the island were dark green steep sided hills/mountains and lower down were trees and coconut trees. The bay was about half a mile and at the end was a stony beach and a small village. Apparently it is famous for its many graceful outrigger canoes used for fishing. It is rumoured that the bay was originally called Bay de Verges (Bay of Phallus) by early explorers because of the shape of the rocky pillars!! Supposedly missionaries disapproved and added an “i” so that it became the Baie of Vierges – virgins.
There were about 11 yachts anchored and the water is quite deep until you get quite close in. We crept in and I thought we could just get in behind two other yachts and we did. I had to watch we did not drift down on to another boat. We soon settled and all we could hear was the noise of the water crashing on to the rocks behind us. We arrived at 11.00am having left just after 2.00pm the day before. We had travelled 119nm and we had done it. From what we could see so far it was worth the effort.
Once sorted we had a bit of a rest and then Keith had a swim and Fiona made lunch. A group of French people from the neighbouring yacht came by to say hello and they told us that a lady in the village was doing a supper tonight of Marquesan dishes if we were interested.
We had a bit of a rest and then headed ashore. There was a small little harbour behind a stone breakwater. We walked up the concrete one road which went in the direction of the valley. There were one story houses on either side which had lush gardens. There was the odd goat and pig tethered here and there. There were no shops but just people living their lives who were friendly. We walked past the church and went in. It was well kept and had a great wood varnished floor and other carvings. We carried on for some time and then turned back. We had just seen houses which looked lived in with bananas hanging from the eves.
We then saw a bridge and wondered over and came across a lady who wanted to show us tapa. These were quite intricate and one of them was a lovely map of French Polynesia. They were quite expensive. We then came across a lady called Angela who said yes we could have dinner tonight at 7.00pm so we thought we should do this as it could be quite an experience.
We returned to Stormbird and had a drink and there was a New Zealand boat who was struggling to anchor. They went round and round and could not find a spot shallow enough. I went to try and help but they said their anchor was dragging so in the end they went off to another anchorage. We saw the sun go down and goats hanging on the sides of the pillars high up and we could hear their bleating.
We went ashore and went to Angela’s house for 7.00pm and we sat at tables in her garden. There was a buffet choice of pork, goat, fish, chicken, banana, papaya and rice etc. It was very good and the French people we met were also eating there. It was quite an experience.
It had been a long day and we returned to Stormbird. This is a magical place and we are lucky to experience this place. We are all ready for a good night’s sleep.
Crewing Opportunity
We have arrived in the Marquesas in French Polynesia and will explore these islands and then move through to the Tuamotu’s before getting to Tahiti about the end of July 2024. There may be some space on Stormbird during this period should any sailor/reader be interested in joining for this period or part of it in what must be one of the most distant and beautiful places in the world.
Year Two
In addition, in year two I will be going from New Zealand in early January 2025 across to Sydney and up the Eastern Australian Coast, Indonesia and probably across the Indian Ocean to Cape Town and I will need some more crew.
If there is any interest do email me at hine.nick9@gmail.com
The blog will continue as we move through French Polynesia and beyond.
If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com I can only upload one picture a day and visit our website www.stormbirdgoesglobal.co.uk