San Blas -10 Marc 2024
The night was not good. Whilst the location was beautiful we had not factored in the risk of bugs and mosquitoes. This was a risk as we were in a mangrove creek and this is what happened. We all had a restless night and whilst we were it not attached by mosquitoes we were by very small (pin head size) black biting flies. We had had a nice supper and were wondering whether there would be any saltwater crocodiles in the creek. We were told to shine our torches and look for the reflection of the red eyes but we did not see any. After supper we went to be to escape the flies.
When I woke, which was early, I made a quick decision to get out of the creek and get into some breeze which would rid us of these tiresome critters. Therefore by about 7.00am were upped anchor and headed out of the Bahia Nahia creek which was part of the Punta San Blas. It did not take long to get out of the creek and into some more windy type of water and even so it took a while to rid us of the turbulent priests (the critters). There was an anchorage we had not tried before in Lemon Cays and I thought we would try that. As we entered it started to rain so I waited a bit and when it rains it does last long. Sure enough within a couple of minutes it stopped. We crept in between a few Islands and I had inputted some waypoints from the Bauhaus book which I followed closely as we were going between a number of reefs. Once we were in we were disappointed, there were no other boats there and it was shallow and they had clearly built a number of tourist huts on one of the Islands. I thought no and said let’s retrace our steps and go back to where I had originally planned to go which was the Chichime Cays where we had been before.. This was a nice, protected anchorage between two Islands and was easy to leave the San Blas as we had decided to head back tomorrow en route to Colon.
It did not take too long to get up to Chichime Cays and we anchored near where we had previously in front of a reef. The anchor bit first time and the ladies cooked scrambled eggs on bread whilst we sorted things out. This was welcome as we were now in a breeze and away from the Critters.
It was Mother’s Day and I have to mention my fantastic Mum to whom I have sent flowers and when I rang she was having lunch with my Dad and my youngest brother Jeremy. I spoke to her a little later which was nice and I must thank her for all that she has done for me and as I was so angelic as a child I was little trouble. Sorry I cannot lie – this is not true. I was quite a difficult child as were my brothers and she had to put up with a lot. Thank you Mum for all you have done for me and I love you very much.
The girls after lunch had a rest as last night was not good. I regularly check the engine room before we leave as you never know what you will see. It is very easy to not do this – out of sight out of mind. However I have come to learn that it is worth doing regularly as you see things that you need to attend to. The day before I had a look and saw oil on the metal step at the back of the engine room. In looking at it, it could only have come from the hydraulic system which I thought dealt with the in-furling mainsail and outhaul which we had used the day before. I had noticed that the pressure dial was yellow as if it had oil in it and when I used a tissue there was oil underneath and also on the top of the reservoir. At the time I thought I cannot look at it now and thought we would be unlikely to use the main tomorrow so I can look at it when we get to the next anchorage.
When the ladies went for a rest I thought now is the time. It seemed the leak was from the pressure gauge and so I asked David to operate the system and sure enough the oil came out the top of the pressure gauge and it fell on to the metal step. `This was the issue. I googled about them and they can go due to old age or because they are masking a problem. Luckily I had a spare so I replaced it and it now seems to be working fine and without a leak. I will keep an eye on it and monitor the situation.
I checked the weather as we were going to head back the next day toward Colon with a planned stop at Isola Linton which was about 43 n miles away.. This meant we would need to prepare the boat for this. We had a light lunch and then dealt first with Puffin. She was still bolted together. In fact the day before in the mangrove creek I had added some paint to parts which has come off her bottom and she was looking good. We turned her over and unbolted the front from the back and then put the front in the back so she nestled and turned her upside down for her usual storage. David and Joyce tied her down and I put away the sail and all her bits away some of which went under Carolyn’s bunk. David and I saw a dolphin swim through the anchorage and alongside Stormbird before disappearing into the reef behind us. At least it was not a crocodile!!.
We decided to go to explore again the Island on our right and we motored up beyond a pontoon where the tourist boats come. We pulled the dinghy up on the beach but which was covered with Sargasso weed this time, We wondered ashore and had a drink watching the sea and water. It was our last day in the San Blas and I asked for reflections.
David said this is probably some of the most authentic and pretty Islands he has ever been too. The people were lovely and friendly and very authentic. They welcomed us to their Islands yet maintained their traditions and culture. The weather has consistently been very good, the waters clear and beautiful and the scenery magnificent. You can sail or motor and it is easy conditions and it ticks all the boxes. He says it was a privilege to visit these Islands and the day we saw the festival was very special and he does not think he will see anything like it again in his lifetime.
Joyce said that she thought the Guna people very honest and trustworthy and it was amazing that they still lived a Nomad life but still seemed happy doing so.
Carolyn agreed with a lot of what David had said and felt very privileged to have witnessed this area. She felt it was a bittersweet situation in that it was so beautiful and nice yet bitter as with global warming these lovely Islands will gradually disappear in time.
As for me this is a very special area to cruise. They are some of the nicest and most beautiful Islands I have ever visited and luckily you can only really visit them by boat which is why they have maintained their character and not been spoiled by society and modernisation. Yes some have mobile phones and outboard motors but a lot do not and use dugout canoes as they have been for centuries. The people live very basically as they have done with bamboo huts and no electricity, although some have solar panels and generators. They are lovely genuine people who accept us as visitors and without complaint. It is magical, the Islands like you would expect in Treasure Islands with fantastic palm trees and sandy beaches. This is one of the few areas of the world where there is lovely coral and great fish life. To swim and snorkel on. I agree it has been a privilege to have been able to come here and spend some time enjoying its beauty. For all you yachtsman out there – you must make this part of your bucket list.
We returned to Stormbird and took the engine off the dinghy and craned it on to the back of the boat. We then hauled up the dinghy on to the davits and we prepared the boat for leaving after breakfast tomorrow. Carolyn made homemade burgers which were delicious with the Guna rolls we had bought from the village.
We are enjoying sitting out on the back deck with the lovely refreshing breeze and not being bitten. The wind is getting up a bit and the halyards rattling very now and then. It is a lovely warm evening and great to be back out in the Islands after a few days without them.
Opportunity for any Readers/Sailors.
In late May 2024 we shall be in the Marquesas in French Polynesia and we will then move through to the Tuomoto’s before getting to Tahiti about the end of July 2024. There may be some space on Stormbird during this period should any sailor/reader be interested in joining for this period or part of it in what must be one of the most distant and beautiful places in the world. If there is any interest do email me at. hine.nick9@gmail.com
The blog will continue as we head off to Panama and beyond.
If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com I can only upload one picture a day and visit our website www.stormbirdgoesglobal.co.uk