We are in the Pacific - 19 March 2024.

We had an interesting night at the mooring and every time a ship went past, we felt the wake of the ship passing. The canal operates 24 hours a day, so this is to be expected. The pilot boats always go at 100% and never slow down so they always rock us as well.

I woke quite early 7.00pm and the rain began to fall and at least we got a clean deck. We could not see any crocodiles but decided to have a proper cooked breakfast of bacon and eggs which I cooked with the bread that Angus had made which was good.

We waited for our pilot to arrive as we looked across to the small town where the dredgers and pilots are stationed. There is  large crane there called Titan which we could see which apparently the Americans captured from the Germans and which was brought to the canal due to its size as it was a crane that could actually lift the lock gates which are so large. As this is getting old, they have bought a new crane from Denmark which they are erecting and which will take Titan’s place.

We were ready by 10.00am but waited for our pilot who arrived at about 10.40am. He was called Adrian and seemed polite and pleasant. About a quarter of a mile North of us were two catamarans who had come in early the day before and who were moored on a buoy. Adrian explained that we were going through with them and it was likely we would be the middle yacht and they would raft (go alongside us) trough the locks. I was a bit disappointed at first since we had gone through on our own on the first day but then thought well can protect Stormbird as if either hit the sides of the lock they will protect Stormbird and act like big fenders!!!

Adrian told us to slip the lines from the buoy we were moored to and to head down the canal going south. The catamarans followed us and Adrian explained that there was a very large vehicle carrier who was coming up the canal behind us and who would come through the locks with us. As it was so big he said keep alongside the buoys marking the channel on the right to give it space. We gradually saw this enormous ship bear down on us and it was called Edith Leader. We were going 8 kts and keeping within 15 feet or so of the channel markers on our Starboard side. Despite this the car carrier came a lot closer than most yachts would ever normally and safely get to. We allowed it to gradually pass as it was not going much faster than we were. It was quite disconcerting and we saw a pilot boat go alongside it and several pilots and canal personnel went up the wooden ladder on its side.

Adrian explained that the Edith Leader would pass us and slow down as it approached the first lock – the Pedro Miguel lock. As the tugs got it ready to go to the lock we would raft up with the Catamarans and the three of us would enter the lock first and the Edith Leader would come into the lock after us. The Edith Leader has a huge height to it and the wind was blowing it to one side. It took quite a lot of tug power to push it adjacent to the lock so that it could enter.

In the meantime, the first Catamaran rafted on our Starboard (right) side, and it was a German boat. Then the second Catamaran came on our port side which was French. What I had not understood about this arrangement was that I was effectively controlling and steering the three boats. I was asked to move forward by the pilot and to steer the whole raft and although I used my wheel, I made small adjustments with the bow thruster (small propeller in the bow of the boat). I had to concentrate and to ensure as we entered the lock that we were in the middle and I left enough space with side of the Catamarans, so  they did not hit the sides. The Catamarans did not steer as I did but when we came to the end of the lock they helped reverse and stop us from going too far. The canal workmen had thrown the monkey’s fists for all 4 lines, but these went to the Catamarans either side, so my crew did not have to deal with these lines. The car carrier came up behind us and looked enormous and was being helped by 4 trains, two each side. It came in and towered above us. It stopped about 20m from our stern.  

We went through the first lock and the second set of locks was a mile ahead and Adran told me to steer and take the raft together to this second set. I therefore helmed the three boats all the way. I then had to steer into the second lock and the current moving us forward was greater, so we had to stop the other end quite carefully. We had to wait some time for the Edith Leader to join us in the lock and there were tourist stands to the left watching all these movements. We looked over the lock and could see the Pacific tantalisingly below and just two locks to go. Whilst we waited Joyce cooked a nice pasta lunch.

The water went down and the gates opened and we then moved forward into the final lock and this time the current was greater and pushing us to then end gate, so we had to ensure we stopped well in advance. Edith Leader joined us and the water lowered again and the gates opened and we were now in the Pacific – hey what an achievement.

We motored forward and got out the way and released the raft with the two Catamarans. We then continued down the channel on the Pacific side and after some time the pilot got off. We continued down the channel and then veered left to go round Flamenco Marina where we were met by our agent Alex. We had a mooring at the end of pontoon E and within 30 feet was Downshifting which was the motorboat next to us in Shelter Bay marina who I had seen off in the early hours the day before.

Joyce cooked a delicious chicken casserole and we felt it was good to be here and it had been an interesting yet challenging two days. However, we were in the Pacific and the next chapter awaits.    

Opportunity for any Readers/Sailors.

In late May 2024 we shall be in the Marquesas in French Polynesia, and we will then move through to the Tuamotu’s before getting to Tahiti about the end of July 2024. There may be some space on Stormbird during this period should any sailor/reader be interested in joining for this period or part of it in what must be one of the most distant and beautiful places in the world. If there is any interest do email me at  hine.nick9@gmail.com  

The blog will continue as we head off to Panama and beyond.

If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com  I can only upload one picture a day and visit our website www.stormbirdgoesglobal.co.uk