Sail to Gran Canaria
Mark and I woke at 6.30am and checked the weather. It was the same 22 kts of wind and up to 2.7m of wave swell. This was not ideal but the next two days looked the same and it is the common weather conditions for this time of year. We therefore decided to go. We upped anchor as it was getting light and set off at 7.15 am. The wind in the lee of Lanzarote was only about 8-9 kts.
Corinne and Jules were flying back from Gran Canaria and Ben, Alex and David coming out, so we had to get there. Gran Canaria is the third largest of the Canary Islands but the most populated. Its capital Las Palmas is the biggest city of the Canaries and home to the largest marina – which is where I went with my last boat Luce di Mare when I sailed the Atlantic with the ARC (Atlantic Race for Cruisers) in 2019. Stormbird completed the ARC in 2003 so she must have gone to Las Palmas which is where the ARC starts from normally in November of each year. Gran Canaria’s biggest peak is 1949m which gives the Island its own climate. The north side is green and often wet and cloudy while the south is almost a wholly brown desert where most of the tourists go. Its varied climate makes it almost seem like a continent in miniature. The west coast (rugged and wild) and the interior have narrow winding roads and hairpin bends. On the east and south there is a highway. The average temperature is mainly 21 degrees throughout the year although 19 in November/December. Compare that to the UK?
In terms of sailing, you have to be aware of acceleration zones which are strong on both sides of the Island, particularly in the north part of the Island. The prevailing wind is North to Northeast so you can expect an increase of 10-15 kts on top of the normal wind in these zones and you therefore need to factor this in when sailing and be prepared for it.
Neither Jules nor Corinne are good in rolly weather. As we approached the end of the shelter of Lanzarote the wind increased and we put up a reefed main and staysail (the smaller of our foresails). We set a waypoint off Las Palmas in Gran Canaria and had about 96 miles to go. The wind increased to 25 kts (21 was forecast) and the waves began to increase. We began to increase speed and were sailing fast about 9-9.5 kts. The miles started to climb but so did the waves, which we rose up and down and we surfed down them as they were on our starboard quarter. It was a bit of a roller coaster ride and at one point surfing down a wave we did 13.5 kts!! The wind went up to 32 kts at one point in gusts (force 8) but it was mainly a force 6/7 which meant fast sailing. Every now and then a wave caught us and the boat was sprayed with water and if you sat in the wrong place, you got an unwelcome shower. This was sailing at its best really, quite harsh but exhilarating.
Jules and Corinne were very brave and counted down the miles. Jules forgot the conditions when a large pod of dolphins joined us jumping out of the waves and enjoying the swell and swimming in front of the boat. We also saw flying fish from time to time which appeared out of the swell and flew for some 30 feet before disappearing again. These were quite wild conditions and we watched in awe the power of the waves and the white horses which pushed Stormbird (and her 43 tons or so) around . However, Stormbird was weathering well and appeared to be enjoying herself even if all the crew were not. The waves at their highest must have been about 4m – quite unnerving but Stormbird coped.
We counted down the miles and suddenly about 15 miles out we saw Gran Canaria and we were nearly there. The girls were relieved and we arrived at our waypoint at 18.50. We had covered the 96 miles in 11 hours and 35 minutes an average of 8.45 kts despite the heavy seas and an equivalent really of 200 miles in a 24-hour period. To the girls I salute you coping so well.
It was good to get into the marina and to find our berth ironically with 20 yards of where we had moored Luce di Mare in 2019. We quickly set off to have a celebratory supper ashore and that first beer tasted so good and that and the meal were very satisfying after a great day.
If you have any questions, comments, suggestions – do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com