To the Canaries

It had been a rolly night and we got little sleep due to the swell. We were leaving for the Canaries today to a first stop in the Canaries at one of the most Northern Islands, La Graciosa, to a bay and anchorage called Playa Francesca. This Island is just North of Lanzarote where there is a straight between them called El Rio and this was the route that 18 century fleets took when heading across the Atlantic to the Caribbean and today it is a route favoured by migrating whales.  Some also say this is the Island where Long John Silver buried his treasure. Wouldn’t it be great if we found it!!

The Island itself has 4 eroded volcanic cons the highest of which is 265 m. The Island lies within a natural park and you are only allowed to anchor at Playa Francesca. This anchorage is one of the most protected and beautiful in the Canaries (with clear blue water) hence the desire to go there (and of course the treasure!!). It will be good to have a day of swimming and snorkelling before moving on the Lanzarote when Jules and Corinne come out again. 

It was my brother Jeremy’s birthday and so I rang him to wish him happy birthday and apparently, he has been reading this blog. I hope it is not too boring, but it is a good record for me and if you want to know more about anything just email me. His birthday always reminds me of the cake story which we often tell. When we were young, we went caravanning with my parents and as J’s birthday was always in August we were inevitably away. My mother therefore used to bake a cake and put it in a tin for the day. However, my middle brother Andrew enjoyed his food and had obviously found this cake. He could not help himself and took a great bite and put it back. On Jeremy’s birthday my mother went to get the cake and opened the tin and screamed. It was very obvious who had committed the crime.

The passage is relatively simple in that you leave Funchal and head some 280 miles on a bearing of 139T. I set a waypoint of the southwest coast of La Graciosa and then 2 more to lead us to the bay. The weather was forecast to be 12-15 knots and to die overnight and assuming we make reasonable speed we should be there by late evening on the 21st.

Keith Watson had to return home, so we said our goodbyes and I took him to the marina where he was getting a flight home. He had been a valuable member of the crew and will be missed. We prepared ourselves and put the dinghy on the davits. There was little wind, so we upped anchor and headed out. However within about a mile the wind grew and we had 20-23 kts. We suddenly were zooming along and very odd this had not been forecast on our predict wind downloads. This continued until we were in the lee (shadow) of the Ilha Desertas which lie beneath Madeira on its east side. Once out of the lee the wind continued and we were making good time.  We had chicken and salad wraps but the best was the waft of chocolate brownies that Mark was making. It smelt so delicious. 

The wind continued in its strong form and I loved to watch the birds who expertly fly right on the surface of the waves and with a twist here and turn there they follow the contours of the wave. They really looked like a Stormbird and are a natural part of sea life. There was no need to look out for lobster pots as within about half a mile of Madeira you are in 500 metres of water and it continues to descend to over 4,000 meters – a similar depth to where the Titanic ended.

The shifts continued and the guys helped me as Keith Watson was no longer with us. The chocolate brownies came out the oven and we had to wait tantalisingly until they were cool and until Mark allowed us to try them. They were delicious and just the thing that keeps you going at sea especially on the night shifts. 

Mark also cooked a delicious tuna, sweet potato and vegetable supper and he was rather upset that due to the conditions we had to use the dog bowls. 

The sun went down with some still testing conditions, but it was good to know we were on way and looked forward to that first swim in blue water.

If you have any questions, comments, suggestions – do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com