Marquesas –Tuamotus 16 June 2024 – Day 2

It was a hard night in that the wind remained strong and higher than forecast. We had to change reefs a number of times and get the staysail out and the swell was quite rolly. We also had the odd rain cloud which affected the wind’s strength during the rain and direction. As Joyce and Andy are not that familiar with the reefing, particularly the main I had to get up a number of times. I could not sleep anyway. By the end of the night, I was quite tired but then slept well for a couple of hours.

I was on again at 9.00am and managed to have a shower before then which made me feel better. Joyce cooked porridge and it was a lovely day with a few white high pressure cotton wool clouds and sun. The wind had calmed down a little and so we reset the sails and put the staysail away. We were soon zooming along again at 7.5-9kts and making good progress. The weather suggested that the wind would gradually die and by 4.00am tomorrow there may be a wind hole which may mean we may have to motor. We need to ensure we get to Ahe- the Tuamotu at about mid-morning on the 18th and we are navigating to that plan.  

The day passed well with lovely weather and the wind remained constant between 12-18 kts which meant we had good pace. This made up for the night which was a bit slower. Our 12.00 noon run was 157nm – a little bit off our average but that was the night’s weather. Andy and I saw a few dolphins who came to say hello and then cleared off again. The overnight boobie passenger left at first light and all we saw was the odd flying fish.  

I charged the batteries again and made some water so we had two full tanks. I looked up again the entrance to Ahe and guidance on anchoring with coral. The issue in these Tuamotu lagoons is coral bommies which are sort of coral pillars. When you anchor you put down your anchor and chain and the wind will blow you about and the tide will come in and out and so you swing around on the anchor chain. The risk with the bommies is that it can get caught around them and snag and it may be difficult to raise the anchor. You have to think that the lagoon is like a shore and water flows over the coral atoll as does the wind so if your anchor does not hold then you could be blown on to the reef. Due to the depths and coral, you cannot put as much anchor chain down as normal which with chain is about 4x the depth when you drop the anchor. The other thing you need to do is to buoy (suspend) your anchor chain with fenders (floats you put on the side of your boat when mooring in a marina) so it raises some of the chain off the seabed and coral bommies so if you swing round it does not snag on the bommies. I have never had to do this so we will have to prepare to be able to do this.  I just hope when we get there that there are not too many yachts so that there is space for us.

We had boiled eggs and tuna and sweetcorn for lunch and the afternoon passed with watches, resting and reading. I got out some shackles etc for attaching our fenders to the chain. The mainsail still has a small tear at the bottom which we had previously taped and it was starting to peel. I therefore out some more tape on. I picked up the Alan Phillips book whose route I am trying to follow and it was interesting to re-read some of the parts we have done and also those parts which we are about to do.  

I called my father to wish him happy Father’s Day and my children did the same for me. One of them was watching the England Serbia game which we won but like most England games there were some nervous moments in the second half.

The day drew to a close and menacing clouds with rain passed behind us reminding us that we need to be on our guard for the rain and increased wind. The sunset was lovely with the sun dipping down under the sea in a golden glow. It got dark and the stars came out with a half-moon shining brightly showing us the clouds.

Joyce had cooked double quantities of the chicken casserole so we had it again and it was equally as good. This was followed by a square of chocolate. The wind is expected to die about 4-5.00am but in the meantime as it got dark like last night it has strengthened so as I write we have two reefs in the main and one in the genoa and we are still doing 8-9 kts in about 17-20 kts of wind. I hope we have a better night tonight.

Today’s picture is of a Tuamotu seen from the air. You can see the coral reef ring and the lagoon inside and we have to enter through a pass through the coral reef

Crewing Opportunity

We are about to leave the Marquesas in French Polynesia and depart for the Tuamotu’s before getting to Tahiti about the end of July 2024. There may be some space on Stormbird during this period should any sailor/reader be interested in joining for this period or part of it in what must be one of the most distant and beautiful places in the world.

Year Two

In addition, in year two I will be going from New Zealand in early January 2025 across to Sydney and up the Eastern Australian Coast, Indonesia and probably across the Indian Ocean to Cape Town and I will need some more crew.

If there is any interest do email me at  hine.nick9@gmail.com  

The blog will continue as we move through French Polynesia and beyond.

If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com  I can only upload one picture a day and visit our website www.stormbirdgoesglobal.co.uk