Marquesas –Tahuata – Ua Huka 8 June 2024

We were up at 5.00am and upped anchor at 5.22am and headed out of the bay with a bit of light. Hive Ova was a dark mass in front of us and we had to cross the channel from Tahuata and there little point in putting up the sails until we passed the western corner of Hiva Ova, since the wind was from the east. The sea was flat and as we motored a few dolphins came to have a look at us.

We were off to Ua Huka which was the last inhabited island to visit. Ua Huka is the smallest of the inhabited islands of the northern group and it is 24 east of Nuku Hiva. It is a crescent shaped island topped by a high ridge which splits at its western end to form two valleys. A curved line of peaks form the spine of the island the highest of which is Mount Hitikau at 1800 feet. Near its base is a vast plateau which resembles California’s Big Sur country or Irelands rural landscape.  

The island is overpopulated with more than 1500 wild horses and 3,000 goats which have deforested the landscape. With less than 600 inhabitants the combined population of horses and goats outnumber the people by ten to one.

Once we passed the western point of Hiva Ova we put up the genoa and main and were on a close to a beam reach and sailing along quite nicely at 7-8.5 kts. It was not too rolly and at that rate we could cover the balance of 63nm in about 6 hours. Keith, Andy and I started the day and the ladies remained in bed. We had had some tea and when the ladies got up we had a bacon sandwich with the loaf that Andy had made which was good.

As the day wore on we encountered several rain clouds which increased the wind strength and meant we had to reef and then un reef regularly. In addition we got out the staysail (small forward sail) probably for the first time since we have been in the Marquesas. The heavens opened a number of times and it felt a bit like the English Channel on a wet blustery day!. The swell increased and there where white horses (when the wave breaks – looking white). It was a fast but slightly rolly sail where you had to keep your wits about you and adapt quickly to the situation to not become overpowered. We had to get out wet weather gear out as well. We managed to make a cheese and tomato sandwich on the hoof.

During the rain and squalls the visibility was quite poor perhaps a quarter of a mile. You have to keep a look out as many boats here do not have AIS. As we approached Ua Huka we could sometimes see the island and then it would disappear. I had been using the radar a lot to ensure we could see where the island was and also to spot and track the rain squalls which show up as red and yellow and you can see whether they are going to hit us. There were many that did but we were prepared. The wind ranged during the day from 7kts through to 25 kts.

There are three anchorages on Ua Huka. The main one is Baie Vaipee which is a narrow inlet and you normally have to use a stern anchor to stop swinging. As we approached we could see on the AIS that the Cruise/Cargo ship Arunui 5 (which we had seen a few days before when leaving Hiva Ova) was anchored in the bay. It only comes every few weeks. We could not see any other yachts in there so perhaps they were asked to leave to make way for the  ship. I had anticipated that this bay would be very busy so had planned to go to Baie D’Hane a few miles North. This was quite a large bay with a beach surrounding it.

We approached the bay and the wind seemed to follow us. There was an island to the right of the entrance and there were no yachts in the bay which was a good thing. However, was there a reason for this? We entered the bay and the swell was not too bad and the bay was surrounded by a huge purple cliff on the west side and a large cliff on the right and we could see the ridge of the center of the island. We went in and anchored in about 10m of water. The anchor held well but the wind was strong and there were gusts of up to 30 kts. This was odd due to the direction of the wind before we entered the bay, but it must have been the shape of the bay which was blowing it in. This was not ideal on a lee shore (i.e.. the wind was blowing on to the shore). There was a catamaran which followed us in and they anchored too.

We had two options – Baie De Vaipee or there was on the western edge of the island. I looked at the weather and the wind was going to get a bit stronger before easing overnight. I therefore thought the prudent thing to do was to go to the western anchorage and the Catamaran had the same idea. As we passed the Baie Vaipee we could see the Cargo/Cruise ship on the bay and which seemed to fill it. We carried on and came round the western edge of the island and then came to the Baie called Haavei which is apparently private. It had a nice sandy beach with palm trees around it. There was some swell in this bay which was surprising but also some wind. It was not as strong as the bay we left but it was clearly coming round the side of the island. The only other option was to go to Nuku Hiva some 26 nm away.

We anchored and had a drink and the swell was not too bad and the wind would come and go. We had ensured the anchor was well dug in and thought we should be ok here for the night. We all enjoyed a shower and cleared up after a rolly wet sail. S.

We monitored the situation and the wind would come quite strong from time to time. Andy cooked a carbonara supper which was delicious. We sat in the cockpit and we monitored the situation but we were here for the night. Hopefully all will be well.  

Crewing Opportunity

We have arrived in the Marquesas in French Polynesia and will explore these islands and then move through to the Tuamotu’s before getting to Tahiti about the end of July 2024. There may be some space on Stormbird during this period should any sailor/reader be interested in joining for this period or part of it in what must be one of the most distant and beautiful places in the world.

Year Two

In addition, in year two I will be going from New Zealand in early January 2025 across to Sydney and up the Eastern Australian Coast, Indonesia and probably across the Indian Ocean to Cape Town and I will need some more crew.

If there is any interest do email me at  hine.nick9@gmail.com  

The blog will continue as we move through French Polynesia and beyond.

If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com  I can only upload one picture a day and visit our website www.stormbirdgoesglobal.co.uk