Marquesas –Ua Huka – Nuku Hiva 9 June 2024

It was a difficult night as we had gusts of up to 30 kts which would swing us around a lot and the anchor alarm went off a number of times. I checked the chart plotter a number of times and the wind strength. We were not moving but it is worrying and disconcerting as the worry is dragging and on a lee shore going on to the beach.

We woke having had a difficult night and it was a grey day unfortunately and we had to decide what to do. We could not go ashore where we were. We could not go ashore in the bay we had been in as it was too rough. We could go back to the original bay we had been in, but the wind was straight into the bay. The other option was to try the Baie of Vaipee that the Cruise/Cargo ship had been in the night before. There were two issues with this in that it would mean going back against the wind and the waves. In addition, the bay is dangerous if the wind becomes southeasterly which it now was. We could stay another day but looking at the forecast it was not going to change much for a few days.  We so wanted to go ashore and see this island, but the conditions were such that it would not be wise to do this. I suggested we go out of the bay and see what it was like against the wind and the waves.

We upped anchor and headed out of the bay and the waves were quite high and the wind was still strong so it was clear that a motor against this was going to be uncomfortable and the risk was when we got there it would still not be possible to enter the bay.  I had already suggested plan B which was to head over to Nuka Hiva and to Baie Anaho which was on the Northwest side and which was a bay we had thought of going to before.

We got out and it was clear that going back up the coast would have been horrible. We agreed therefore that we would do plan B and head off to Niku Hiva. This was a downwind sail all the way and we just put up the staysail to start with. This meant we were going about 6-7kts and initially it was fine easy flat sailing. However, the wind increased up to 30 kts from time to time (Force7) meant that the sea state rose and we then had a rocky roll sail toward Nuku Hiva. Despite this we felt safe, but it was rolly and a little unpleasant from time to time. We had a sandwich lunch as this was easy.

We could see a lot of grey around and rain clouds which we had to watch and try and avoid. We could see Nuku Hiva gradually appear, but it was covered in cloud and mist and looked as if it was in bad weather. As we looked back we could see Ua Huka also shrouded in mist. We sailed on and within 4-5 hours we approached the Northwest coast still doing about 6 kts and rolling like a cork in a bottle. There were no other boats out here and I am not sure how many other sailors would sail in these conditions. Whilst it was uncomfortable Stormbird looks after us and you do not feel unsafe.

We reached the corner of Nuku Hiva and the bay we were going into was the third bay along on the  northwest side. We sailed along and made sure we were not too close to the headlands. We reached our bay and headed in. It is 1.5 nm inland and over time the wind and swell died and we headed into this beautiful bay. On the east side was a brown/red ridge with a few trees on it. At the end of the bay was a sandy bay with palm trees behind. Above the beach was a mount rising to above 1,000 feet. To the western end of the bay was another sandy beach below some low cliffs. There is a coral reef on front of it and there is a set of buoys leading you through to the beach. We came in and there were about 11-12 yachts already anchored. We circled round and found a good anchoring spot and as we did the heavens opened.

We anchored and in the wet had a cup of tea. It was great to be anchored in a flat bay with little wind. We sorted ourselves out and Andy and I did a few jobs. The rain stopped and we got out the chairs on the back and had a drink whilst watching the lovely scenery.

It was good to be here and it felt calm and safe after a few windy days. Fiona made a great supper of duck, spinach and roast potatoes with a starter of pate and tomatoes.    

It was a lovely supper and we look forward to exploring this bay tomorrow and its coral reef.   

Crewing Opportunity

We have arrived in the Marquesas in French Polynesia and will explore these islands and then move through to the Tuamotu’s before getting to Tahiti about the end of July 2024. There may be some space on Stormbird during this period should any sailor/reader be interested in joining for this period or part of it in what must be one of the most distant and beautiful places in the world.

Year Two

In addition, in year two I will be going from New Zealand in early January 2025 across to Sydney and up the Eastern Australian Coast, Indonesia and probably across the Indian Ocean to Cape Town and I will need some more crew.

If there is any interest do email me at  hine.nick9@gmail.com  

The blog will continue as we move through French Polynesia and beyond.

If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com  I can only upload one picture a day and visit our website www.stormbirdgoesglobal.co.uk