The Grand Majestic -Rabida - Galapagos –27 April 2024.

I woke and looked out the portholes at Rabida. This is a small island south of Santiago and has very red rock – like the colour of Devon soil. Although the rock was red it had a few low-level rolling hills covered in olive green bush with low cacti trees. I prefer these small islands as they are quieter and more intimate and there was only one other tourist boat here.

I got up and had an early coffee and surveyed the island from the aft deck. After breakfast we went off in the dinghies round the corner and on past a red sandy beach. We approached some rocks as Louis wanted to show us a Galapagos Fur Sea Lion which never go on beaches and keep away from humans. There are only about 4,000 in the Galapagos compared to 50,000 Galapagos Sea Lions. The Galapagos Fur Sea Lion is smaller and has a longer snout and bigger eyes and sticky out ears and likes rock shade and hence why they are found on these smaller islands. Louis knew a spot where they frequented and sure enough we saw three swimming in the water and one shading on a rock. They did look quite small in comparison to their Sea Lion cousins. We also saw quite a bit of fish life in the form of what looked like sharks, but Louis said they were Devil Fish which you could just see under the surface.  

We sped back and landed on what was a large red sand beach -its colour because of the rock and iron ore. It had a lot of little crabs on it and at the back was the green scrub. There were some Marine Iguanas on the beach and they looked quite small and thin. Louis said they are smaller here and as the water is warmer they may be struggling to find enough algae which does not grow well in warm water. We walked back from the beach and within 50 yards there was a brackish pond which usually has flamingos in it. However not today. They may have flown to the other islands as there are a number which have brackish pools.

We walked along beside the pool and saw mockingbirds and doves which were quiet inquisitive and who came quite close. We also saw two male lave lizards fighting and it was quite fierce and Louis said he had not seen such a long fight before. We then came back to GM and prepared for another snorkel.

This snorkel did not disappoint again and I saw a number of sharks, at least three turtles, one of which I followed for some time, pipe fish, starfish and a load of tropical fish – parrot fish, surgeon fish and sergeant majors for example. The snorkel ended around a large rock which was teeming with fish life all around it and it was as if it was a meeting point. In the depths a white tip shark swam by. It had been another great snorkel which I filmed on my Go Pro. We returned to GM for a snack and this time we had tea with or without rum- but I am not sure about this drink and whether it is best use of rum!.       

We had about 40 minutes before lunch which was Mexican food. GM moved from Rabida to a small island and bay called Chinese Hat – as apparently the volcanic cone looks like a Chinese hat. It was the other end of the lava flow we had walked on yesterday. We arrived for lunch and then we had some time to rest before another snorkel .

We first of all went out in the dinghies and had a look around and came across a penguin swimming and a few Sea Lions swimming and sunbathing on the rocks. We then went in and snorkelled for about 50 minutes going with the current around part of the lagoon and back along the shore toward the GM. This was another great snorkel (I know I keep writing this again but it is true) where I saw and swam with several sharks, at least 3 turtles and thousands of fish of similar types to what I had seen in previous snorkels There were a few new fish and in a cave was an enormous ray lying on the sand. It was right under a ledge so I could not see it all, but it was huge and apparently they can grow up to 8 meters across. The visibility was pretty good and it was a great location.

We returned to GM for a snack and a passion fruit drink and then GM had to move to Baltra to pick up supplies. It was not a long trip, but it was nice sitting on the aft deck in the breeze watching our route and we passed a number of small islands. We anchored briefly, picked up supplies and moved on where we will anchor off the north of San Cristobal at Witch Hill.

We had dinner whilst underway which was enjoyable. Louis briefed us about tomorrow. It had been another great day.

Opportunity for any Readers/Sailors.

In late May 2024 we shall be in the Marquesas in French Polynesia, and we will then move through to the Tuamotu’s before getting to Tahiti about the end of July 2024. There may be some space on Stormbird during this period should any sailor/reader be interested in joining for this period or part of it in what must be one of the most distant and beautiful places in the world.

In addition, in year two I will be going up the Eastern Australian Coast, Indonesia and probably across the Indian Ocean to Cape Town and I will need some more crew.

If there is any interest do email me at  hine.nick9@gmail.com  

The blog will continue as we head off to the Galapagos and beyond.

If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com  I can only upload one picture a day and visit our website www.stormbirdgoesglobal.co.uk