The Grand Majestic -Return to San Cristobal - Galapagos –28 April 2024.

We had motored part of the night and would have anchored in the early hours. I woke about 6.00am and opened the blind to look out at Witch Hill, which is a large Tufa rock on the Northern aspect of San Cristobal. It is quite a view when you are in the shower and look out. How often can you shower and look out over a beautiful landscape? It is called Witch Hill by the locals as on Christmas Day and New Year music could be heard but no-one was there.

We had breakfast which was bacon and eggs!! We then headed out in the dinghies and over to Witch Hill, the large rock formation rising straight from the sea for about 300 meters and it has various caves and indentations and inlets where the sea rushes in and out. There was quite a bit of green algae on the rock base which is good for the iguanas and indicating that the water is cold enough for it to grow. Within a short period of time we saw a large marine iguana resting on the base of the rock and out of the tide range. We also saw a Sea Lion swimming around and some Boobies and the odd Pelican. They are huge as you will have seen from the last blog picture.

We continued to slowly go along the large rock face and came to a large indentation which went in some 70 feet and which rose vertically some 300 metres – they call it the Cathedral, but this must have eroded and fallen in at some point. We went in with the dinghies and looked around. We then continued on round and came to the arch hole which went right through the rockface a bit little Durdle Door in the UK – but far longer say 150 feet. The dinghies went through it and we had a great picture from the other side looking back towards Kicker Rock which we had snorkelled round when we did the 360-degree day trip of San Cristobal. It is also known as Leon Dormido (like a Sea Lion) but most people called it Kicker Rick because it looks like a foot – not sure I can see that. It is one of the best snorkel areas and has numerous sea birds. It is also where Hammerheads congregate also I did not see on our snorkel.

There was a large brown Pelican in the entrance to the Cave. We saw a lot in Panama and the Las Perlas islands, but they were not as large as the Galapagos Brown Pelican. It catches its food by plunge diving where it scoops up the water with its large beak which it then drains through its large pouch under its beak and swallows the fish. The pouch can extend and when full can enclose as much as 2-3 gallons of water. It is in their flying that they are magnificent in my view. They beat their large wings and then glide effortlessly just above the water for some distance and sometimes in unison as if in flight formation . They nest in small colonies in the mangrove forests or small shrubs and they normally lay 2-3 eggs. Both adults share incubation which is about 4 weeks and then the born will stay in the  nest fledgling for about 10 weeks and they feed from their parent’s beak pouches. Whilst there is high success in raising young learning the art of fishing for themselves is not easy and many die of starvation if they do not learn quickly enough.  

I then got in a Kayak with Gonzalo, one of the crew and we kayaked through the arch and back along Witch Hill and its base. This was clearly a popular turtle area as I saw several turtles swimming just under the water or coming to the surface to breathe. We carried on round going south to the end of the rock until we came to a lovely long sandy beach where the dinghies stopped to let the rest off on to the beach. It was pristine white sand with lots of crabs coming up out of holes and lovely blue turquoise water. We had some spare time and Mark, Corinne and I walked up the beach whilst Keith and Ruth had a swim. We came across a Marine Iguana who appeared to be going for a walk as we saw the tracks in the sand before we saw him. He appeared to be in a good condition and I am not sure where he was going as he had cleared walked quite a distance when we saw him. We walked back along the beach and had a great swim in the beautiful clear water. The bottom was very clean and sandy and the water was quite refreshing until you got used to it.

After some time we returned to GM and had a drink and a snack. GM was moving on to what is called Losbos Island or Sea Lion Island where we are to snorkel and to visit the island.  We sat on the sun deck and enjoyed the trip as we could see Kicker Rick appearing and disappearing and it was interesting to see it change shape. We arrived and anchored. You would not know it was an island unless you got quite close. It had a rocky shore and was a very low level – not more than 20 feet and was covered in green shrub. You could see a lot of birdlife above it – what looked like Frigatebirds.

At 2.00pm we left for our snorkel and were dropped off at the southeast corner and swam North. This was a great snorkel as we saw a lot of fish of all different tyres like we have seen at other snorkels but also several turtles and starfish. We saw no sharks but in the shallows there were lots of sea lions swimming around us and being very inquisitive. They are so fast and manoeuvrable in the water – it was so fun and amazing to be able to do this. We came to the surface from time to time and there were Blue Footed Boobies and Pelicans sitting on the rocks and there were a number of sunbathing sea lions. It was amazing last snorkel and when I think back we have had so many but my favourite was Devils Crown.

We returned to GM for hot chocolate and brandy and then we went out by dinghy to actually go on the island. It is relatively small but full of birdlife. We saw a lot of Blue Footed Boobies sitting on eggs and quite close. It was hot so they were standing up and moving their muscles under their beaks which apparently cools them. We saw courting couples walking up and down comically with their feet as I have explained in a previous blog as being their courtship dance squawking and making trumpet noises.  It was magical to see them so close and in their mating and  laying season.

We also saw a lot of nesting Frigatebirds and they re quite large and we saw a number of males with their red puffed out chests. There were a number flying above and a number in the foliage where they are trying to attract the females. The Frigatebirds or “man of war” birds named because of their pirate type habits. They are large black birds with long wings, long hooked beaks and deeply forked tails.  The males try and attract the females and once a pair is established a honeymoon of nestbuilding commences which are usually built in low shrubs. A single egg is laid and both parents share the incubation period of 7-8 weeks and they usually do shifts of about a week at a time during which period they lose a fifth of their bodyweight.

If the egg hatches successfully the chick is guarded over by a parent for the first week and then it must sit in the nest for up to 5 months before it is able to fly during which time the parents continued to feed it. Once fledged the young bird continues to remain dependent on its parents for over a year while it learns the complex skills of the frigatebird trade. It is not regarded as mature until it reaches about 5 years.  Frigatebirds are really masters of the air and it is their wing shape and precise timing which makes them superb stunt flyers. They are light for their size and have the highest wingspan to weight ratio amongst the birds here. Their forked tails can be scissored in and out to maintain balance in flight. This flying skill together with their long beak enables them to catch flying and other fish, squid and other scraps from the surface of the sea and they never dive into it like Pelicans or Boobies etc. In fact only its beak will touch the water and it must avoid getting its plumage wet as it will become waterlogged and may drown.

However, they may try and steal food from other sea birds and often in the air. They will watch other birds like Boobies returning to the nest to feed their chicks and will try and force the bird to disgorge its food and snatch it before it hits the water and this demands great flying skills.

The island was an amazing sight and we were lucky to get so close and at a special time for these birds.

We returned to GM for another drink and a snack and then GM got underway to take us back to Puerto Baquerizo Marino which is where we started. This took about an hour and as we came in Stormbird was anchored on the left of us. It was good to see her, but it was sad that this great trip on GM was coming to an end.

We reflected – what a most amazing trip we have had. We have seen so much in such a short period of time. We have been pampered and fed so well and have been looked after brilliantly by such a great crew who enjoy their work and each other’s company. We will never forget this experience and how lucky we have been.

At 6.30pm the crew assembled and thanked us and gave us a toast. We did the same and thanked them. We then had a great final supper of lobster with salad and vegetables and chocolate cake. We all leave in the morning and we all wished this adventure could continue.

Opportunity for any Readers/Sailors.

In late May 2024 we shall be in the Marquesas in French Polynesia, and we will then move through to the Tuamotu’s before getting to Tahiti about the end of July 2024. There may be some space on Stormbird during this period should any sailor/reader be interested in joining for this period or part of it in what must be one of the most distant and beautiful places in the world.

In addition, in year two I will be going up the Eastern Australian Coast, Indonesia and probably across the Indian Ocean to Cape Town and I will need some more crew.

If there is any interest do email me at  hine.nick9@gmail.com  

The blog will continue as we head off to the Galapagos and beyond.

If you have any comments or suggestions about the blog do email me on hine.nick9@gmail.com  I can only upload one picture a day and visit our website www.stormbirdgoesglobal.co.uk